Devizes

Devizes has a Norman castle that is mostly Victorian, and a market cross built around the story of a woman who dropped dead after being caught cheating, which tells you what the town cared about. It has had no railway station since 1966. Getting to London without a car means a coach, unless it's Easter, when people canoe to Westminster on purpose. Wiltshire's Moonrakers story is said to have started at the Crammer, where locals caught hiding smuggled goods pretended to be simple, and the town has been letting outsiders underestimate it ever since.