Newlyn

Newlyn is a working fish dock that happens to have a view, and it has spent a century politely declining to become Mousehole. The boats go out at four in the morning and the smell that comes back is the smell of someone's mortgage being paid, which is a fact a certain kind of incomer discovers on day three and mentions to the estate agent on day four. Painters turned up in the 1880s for the light and stayed for the cheap rent, a business model later generations have kept running with slightly worse paintings. It is beautiful in the way a place is beautiful when nobody has arranged it for you.